Norwegians at the Bocuse d'Or
An amazing pride is being taken in Norwegian raw materials and cooking traditions which to foreigners often smack of a rather exotic heritage. Internationally, Norwegian raw materials and cooking traditions are increasingly being discovered for its excellent quality. Our chefs tend to combine continental with characteristically Norwegian, even regional, elements. Arne Brimi, master chef from Lom, is a pioneer in this respect. Food should be fussed with as little as possible, leaving the natural flavours of the raw materials - from the sea, from the fields, from the highlands and mountains - to predominate.
The Culinary Competition Bocuse d'Or was established in 1987 by Paul Bocuse and the "Sepelcom" fair organiser in Lyon with the objective to promote young international chefs through an unofficial World Championship. The Championship has become the global reference in the culinary world, and winning the Bocuse "trophée" is like bringing home an Olympic medal.
Bocuse d'Or - is an the assembly of two French words reflecting the competition - Bocuse being the family name of the founder of the competition Paul Bocuse, probably the world's most known chef and the main inspiration to several generations of French and International chefs. Or simply means gold in French. Litteraly this would end up to the Golden Bocuse, understanding that this is the really the World Culinary Champion.
1983 – The idea is born
The history of the Bocuse d'Or goes back to 1983, when the The Salon des Métiers de Bouche (Culinary Sector Exhibition and Trade Fair) was created in Lyon - "An exhibition organised by professionals for professionals." Lyon, the renowned gastronomic capital was lacking an event that could live up to its worldwide reputation. With around 500 exhibitors and 51.000 visitors, the exhibition was a great success. A success story confirmed with the 2nd edition in 1985 at Eurexpo, the new Lyon Exhibition Centre, with 750 exhibitors and 70.000 visitors.
At this time, Paul Bocuse is appointed Honorary President of the exhibition and already starts thinking a culinary competition to take place during the exhibition.
Norway is an important nation when it comes to Bocuse d'Or, not only as a seafood supplier, but even more on the culinary side. Norway became official supplier for the competition in 1997 with Norwegian Skrei, in 1999 the 22 chefs prepared Norwegian Saithe and Scallops whilst in 2003 Norwegian Fjord Trout will play a major role during the competition. Already in 1991, Lars Erik Underthun brought home a silver medal, in 1993 Bent Stiansen became the Bocuse d'Or, Odd Ivar Solvold came third in 1997 preparing Norwegian Skrei and in 1999 Terje Ness managed to come first using Norwegian Saithe and Scallops in one of his major course. Nobody else than France has such a rating in the competition.
The story of Norway and the Bocuse d'Or year by year:
1987
Arne Brimi from Lom, chef at Fossheim Turisthotel are participating with Norwegian Salmon and Chicken. He does not make it to the final round. Hroar Dege is the Norwegian judge.
1989
Eyvind Hellstrøm chef and proprietor of Bagatelle is preparing lobster and lamb, he takes a surprising 5th place. Hroar Dege is the Norwegian judge.
1991
Lars Erik Underthun chef and part-proprietor at Feinschmecker prepares sole and duck. He brings home a fabulous silver medal. Hroar Dege is the Norwegian judge.
1993
Bent Stiansen chef and proprietor of Statholdergaarden made turbot (Norwegian) and beef filet. Surprisingly, he comes in first, and Norway has really positioned itself in the international culinary environment. Eyvind Hellstrøm is the Norwegian judge.
1995
Norway is not participating as we took the first place in 1993 (as of 2003 this rule is changed).
1997
Odd Ivar Solvold from Sandefjord prepares Norwegian Skrei and pork, and gets a bronze medal. Eyvind Hellstrøm is the Norwegian judge.
1999
Terje Ness, working at Bagatelle in Oslo, prepares Norwegian Saithe and Scallops and pigeons. His preparations are impressive and for the second time Norway secured the victory. Eyvind Hellstrøm is the Norwegian judge.
2001
Norway is not participating due to the victory in 1999 (as of 2003 this rule is changed).
2003
Norwegian Fjord Trout and Beef filets are the main ingredients… Charles Tjessem from Stavanger wins the Gold medal with the following recipe:
The gold recipe "Trollfjord"
The following is a description of the Norwegian Fjord Trout dish made by Charles Tjessem. This is a dish prepared by a world champion for the prestigious competition Bocuse d'Or. Flavour and composition have to be perfect, and nothing is left to chance. For that reason, this is not a recipe in the traditional sense - rather it is an attempt to describe according to the directions of the master himself. Remember that this is for world champions in the profession, and it's not what you would ordinarily make when serving Norwegian Fjord Trout. But we hope that it will inspire you to serve Norwegian Fjord Trout in a new and different way.
Recipe makes 14 servings (12 jury members, one for photography plus one extra)
Trout composition
Fillet two whole Norwegian Fjord Trout and trim parts of the belly. Cutting carefully from the belly, remove the uppermost layer (including the difficult to remove bones). The fillets should all be the same thickness, like a schnitzel. Prepare a brine of 3 dl salt and 3 liters water. Add the fillets and let marinate for around 15 minutes.
Sauté 20 raw ocean crayfish (langoustines) (4-5 per fillet) with ground coriander. Let cool, then trim the edges. Arrange overlapping vertically on 4 pieces of plastic wrap. Roll up and refrigerate.
Slice and blanch radish and mangold (silver beet). Divide the mangold and radish among 4 sheets of plastic wrap. Brush with lemon zest, lemon thyme and tarragon. Grind black pepper over. Arrange the Norwegian Fjord Trout fillets on the vegetables. Unwrap the crayfish rolls and place one on each trout fillet. Roll up, enclosing the crayfish roll in the Norwegian Fjord Trout, which is, in turn, wrapped in the mangold and radish. Tie or knot tightly and steam at approximately 70ºC for 14 minutes. When the rolls are cooked through, cut each into 4 pieces (that makes enough for 16 servings – two extra). Top each piece with a little caviar and a poached quail egg.
Carrot brochetta
Cut thin slices of white bread and sauté with garlic. Peel and slice carrots all the same thickness. Cook in a 50/50 mixture of carrot juice and orange juice until tender, 5-10 minutes. (Prepare both juices in a juice centrifuge). Reduce the juice mixture and brush onto the carrots after cooking.
Cauliflower cream
Separate the cauliflower into florets and cook in milk until tender. Drain, then mash. Add cream and beat with an immersion blender until smooth and light. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Clean and cook tiny carrots. Glaze with the reduced juice mixture.
Cook shallot rings in vinegar, water and salt.
Cook mini-artichokes in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice and water with coriander seeds, black peppercorns and salt.
Shrimp-oyster galette
Place a lightly poached oyster in the bowl of each spoon.
Make a mousseline of 200 g raw shrimp, 40 g cold butter and 1 1/5 dl whipping cream. Add salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Poach the mousseline and let cool. Slice Arrange shrimp in an overlapping pattern on each mousseline slice. Place on each oyster. Top with cucumber balls marinated in olive oil, honey, salt and pepper.
Potato ganache
Cut thin slices of mangold (silver beet) and glaze them with honey, lemon juice and olive oil. Place them in the bottom. Top with deep-fried chips.
Make a potato-mascarpone cream of 150 g mashed almond potatoes, 150 g mascarpone cheese and 1 tablespoon garlic puree (made of garlic blanched in water 10 times). Season with salt and pepper and beat in 40 g butter and 1.2 dl whipping cream.
Divide among individual molds and freeze. Just before serving, bread and deep-fry.
Coconut-lemongrass-curry sauce
Sauté 2 chopped lemongrass stalks, 5 shredded lime leaves, zest of 1 lemon, 2 chopped shallots and 2 tablespoons curry powder in 60 g butter. Add 5 dl dry white wine, 1 liter, fish stock made from flat fish, 6 dl coconut milk (2 cans). Reduce, then add 150-200 g butter, salt, pepper and lemon juice. This sauce will be mixed with mayonnaise – rather, the mayonnaise will be mixed into the sauce. It becomes an emulsion and it's important the mix correctly so that the sauce doesn't curdle.
The mayonnaise is different from standard mayonnaise, as it contains both clarified butter and olive oil.
Mayonnaise à la Charles:
4 egg yolks, 4 dl clarified butter, 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper
Prepare mayonnaise in the traditional manner. First add the vinegar, then gradually add the clarified butter and continue with the olive oil. Carefully add to the sauce so that it doesn't curdle.